Learning how to repair a sewing machine is exciting. You get to see and work on so many different brands of sewing machines. A good sewing macine repair book will teach you the basics, and experience with different brands is fun.
Are you one of those people who desires only the best? Then when it comes to sewing machines, you want only the Bernina. For seventy five years family owned and operated Bernina of Switzerland has set the pace for sewing machine innovation, quality, and performance. The brand maintains the highest customer loyalty in the industry.
Berninas are very special and require highly skilled and specialized technical service. The subtle differences make it difficult for the ordinary sewing machine technician to do a proper job of servicing. Therefore, Bernina Sewing Machine Repair is not something you want to leave to just anyone. Demand a fully certified Bernina Sewing Machine Repair Technician, and check out their experience and reputation.
Can we get repair services locally, or do we have to ship a machine to Switzerland?
You can usually find your Bernina Sewing Machine Repair Center listed in the yellow pages. Look under sewing machine repair. You might search on Yahoo or Google. Search for sewing machine repair with your zip code. Every authorized dealer will have a certified technician on site to support and service your needs.
Bernina sales, support, and service is available in most larger cities through Berninas network of over six hundred authorized dealers. Also, you will find about twenty five Bernina corporate stores located inside Hancock Fabric Super Stores.
What if there are no local dealers in my area? Bernina maintains a national service center in Aurora, Illinois which can provide support if you ship them your machine. The technicians are top notch, but it can be very expensive. It also takes more time than a local shop would.
You also have the option of doing your own sewing machine repair even on your Bernina.
Yes. You can learn to service your own Bernina sewing machine. To do so you will need three things. First, you will need a good general sewing machine repair knowledge. Second, you will need access to Bernina parts. Third, you will need a local certified Bernina Sewing Machine Repair Technician. He can assist you if you get into trouble.
The general sewing machine repair knowledge can be learned. Check out the excellent sewing machine repair course by David Trumble. These courses will enable you to do most of the Bernina Sewing Machine Repairs. This includes standard service, cleaning and oiling, and minor adjustments. Some dealers will offer periodic introductory classes to basic Bernina service as well.
Sewing machine repair parts are available through your local retail dealer or corporate store. Also, parts are available through Bernina of America if you own a Bernina dealership.
Is it possible to open my own Bernina store? Yes. Depending on the availability of territory and your qualifications, it is possible. Berninas requirements are pretty hefty. You must submit and have a detailed business plan approved by Bernina. The dealer purchase price runs about $40,000. The Bernina New Dealer Training Program must also be completed.
Getting help is important. Especially, when you are first starting out. You will need the help of a certified Bernina Sewing Machine Technician. He can help you solve the more complex problems. It is well worth a drive of a few miles to get help. Have an experienced technician diagnose and resolve complex problems with you. It can be a great learning experience.
Find out more about how to repair a sewing machine from Author David Trumble's sewing machine repair book as well as his sewing machine repair classes. Click here to down load Dr. Trumble's free sewing machine repair beginner's course.
Tuesday, February 24, 2009
Thursday, February 19, 2009
Sewing Machine Repair: Electricity Revolutionizes Sewing
The awesome invention of the sewing machine has inspired creativity for over 150 years.
When Elias Howe invented the sewing machine in 1846, it was an amazing mechanical device driven by human power. The evolution of the sewing machine included foot power, hand power, and eventually electrical power. This transition has had huge impact on moder day diy repair singer sewing machine and over all sewing machine repair.
The power system of the sewing machine in those days involved the use of levers, gear, belts, and wheels. The user would start the process either by hand or foot power, and the sewing machine would transfer that movement across the sewing machine to its various parts. This enabled the machine to move the needle, hook, and feed systems to generate sewing.
A major advancement occurred when the human power was replaced by electrical power. Electric motors were mounted behind the sewing machine with a small pulley connected by a belt drove a larger wheel on the upper shaft. The electric power was essentially changed into mechanical power.
The electric motor made sewing faster, easier, and more reliable. It never got tired pumping or cranking. In the early years of this change over, existing sewing machine were often converted by replacing the hand cranks or treadles with motors mounted, aligned, and connected by belt to the machine. While the treadle and hand crank machines are now nostalgic treasures, they do not compare to the productive ability of the motorized sewing machine.
AC motors use Alternating Current or standard household electricity from the electric outlet on your wall. This electricity cycles electric flow in one direction and then in the other all at 120 volts. Inside the motor, this alternating current is processed through a coil winding around a core with a motor shaft in the center. The coil produces a magnetic field pulling one way, and then cycles the opposite direction. The result is that shaft starts to revolve or turn. The electrical energy from the wall is converted into mechanical energy in the motor. A belt or gear is then used to turn the sewing machine. This is controlled by the sewing machine foot control which often requires the technician to repair sewing machine foot control.
Electric motors come in two types AC and DC. In both cases the electricity used to run the motor must operate in a continuous unbroken circuit or loop. If the flow of electricity in the circuit flows in one direction and then in the opposite direction, it is called alternating current. If the flow is in only one direction within the loop, it is DC or direct current. Use of a transformer can convert AC to DC or the reverse.
AC motors are used in conjunction with levers, gears, cams, and other mechanical devices to make stitches and run the sewing machine in what are known as mechanical sewing machines. For over a hundred years, this applied to all sewing machines. Even now AC driven mechanical sewing machines are used for commercial use and low end models.
In recent years, another revolution has begun. The introduction of integrated computer circuits and other electronics have brought huge improvements in the reliability and smoothness of operations. A good example of this can be found in the elna tsp air electronic sewing machine repair manual which show how air electronics controls the motor. Another advancement has been the introduction of DC pulse motors to control the sewing machine and produce stitches. The result has been amazing. These modern sewing machines make sewing so much easier and enjoyable.
Understanding the power system of your sewing machine will help you understand when it is functioning properly or improperly. If the machine is not working they way you expect, understanding will help you make adjustments and repairs. The sewing machine repair manuals offered by Dr. David Trumble provide detailed sewing machine repair instructions.
Pick up your free Sewing Machine Repair beginner's course: 7 Steps To Peak Performance For Your Sewing Machine. Also check out his indept sewing machine repair manuals.
When Elias Howe invented the sewing machine in 1846, it was an amazing mechanical device driven by human power. The evolution of the sewing machine included foot power, hand power, and eventually electrical power. This transition has had huge impact on moder day diy repair singer sewing machine and over all sewing machine repair.
The power system of the sewing machine in those days involved the use of levers, gear, belts, and wheels. The user would start the process either by hand or foot power, and the sewing machine would transfer that movement across the sewing machine to its various parts. This enabled the machine to move the needle, hook, and feed systems to generate sewing.
A major advancement occurred when the human power was replaced by electrical power. Electric motors were mounted behind the sewing machine with a small pulley connected by a belt drove a larger wheel on the upper shaft. The electric power was essentially changed into mechanical power.
The electric motor made sewing faster, easier, and more reliable. It never got tired pumping or cranking. In the early years of this change over, existing sewing machine were often converted by replacing the hand cranks or treadles with motors mounted, aligned, and connected by belt to the machine. While the treadle and hand crank machines are now nostalgic treasures, they do not compare to the productive ability of the motorized sewing machine.
AC motors use Alternating Current or standard household electricity from the electric outlet on your wall. This electricity cycles electric flow in one direction and then in the other all at 120 volts. Inside the motor, this alternating current is processed through a coil winding around a core with a motor shaft in the center. The coil produces a magnetic field pulling one way, and then cycles the opposite direction. The result is that shaft starts to revolve or turn. The electrical energy from the wall is converted into mechanical energy in the motor. A belt or gear is then used to turn the sewing machine. This is controlled by the sewing machine foot control which often requires the technician to repair sewing machine foot control.
Electric motors come in two types AC and DC. In both cases the electricity used to run the motor must operate in a continuous unbroken circuit or loop. If the flow of electricity in the circuit flows in one direction and then in the opposite direction, it is called alternating current. If the flow is in only one direction within the loop, it is DC or direct current. Use of a transformer can convert AC to DC or the reverse.
AC motors are used in conjunction with levers, gears, cams, and other mechanical devices to make stitches and run the sewing machine in what are known as mechanical sewing machines. For over a hundred years, this applied to all sewing machines. Even now AC driven mechanical sewing machines are used for commercial use and low end models.
In recent years, another revolution has begun. The introduction of integrated computer circuits and other electronics have brought huge improvements in the reliability and smoothness of operations. A good example of this can be found in the elna tsp air electronic sewing machine repair manual which show how air electronics controls the motor. Another advancement has been the introduction of DC pulse motors to control the sewing machine and produce stitches. The result has been amazing. These modern sewing machines make sewing so much easier and enjoyable.
Understanding the power system of your sewing machine will help you understand when it is functioning properly or improperly. If the machine is not working they way you expect, understanding will help you make adjustments and repairs. The sewing machine repair manuals offered by Dr. David Trumble provide detailed sewing machine repair instructions.
Pick up your free Sewing Machine Repair beginner's course: 7 Steps To Peak Performance For Your Sewing Machine. Also check out his indept sewing machine repair manuals.
Wednesday, February 11, 2009
Necchi Sewing Machine Repairs
Necchi sewing machines are classic sewing machines. Originally manufactured in Italy, the Necchi Lydia was one of the most popular selling sewing machines in history.
The classic Italian sewing machine brand known as Necchi is currently manufactured in Asia and marketed in the United States by Allyn International of Denver, Colorado. The line has developed a strong reputation for dependability and longevity.
My first training in sewing machine repair was Necchi Sewing Machine Repair. In 1992, it was my privilege to train at Allyn International, where I learned the basics of sewing machine repair. I deeply appreciated the willingness of Allyn International and the Necchi National Sewing Machine Repair Center to provide this training. This provided a solid foundation to master sewing machine repair across many brands of sewing machines.
Sewing machine repair skills with Necchi machines, easily transfer to working on other brands. The solid classic Necchi designs are very similar to other mechanical and mid line sewing machines.
When a person becomes an authorized dealer for Necchi sewing machines, they receive strong support and certification from Allyn International to represent and service machines.
The basis of all sewing machine service is the full service. The goal of the full service is to eliminate the causes of problems and fine tune the sewing machine to operate as close to new as possible. The primary cause of sewing machine failure is the collection of lint, dirt, debris, and crystallized lubricants. The full service sets out to thoroughly clean away those sources of problem while refurbishing the machine with fresh lubrication and readjustments.
Customers often seek quick fixes to reduce their costs of service, but are usually dissatisfied with the results. Many technicians willingly perform quick fixes, when a machine is broken or failing to perform as it should. They do so aware that the quick fix machine will probably be returned for additional service within a very short period of time. Most technicians refuse to warranty quick fix services because the underlying cause of failure has not been addressed. The clean and oil are usually warranted thirty to sixty days.
A clean and oil begins when the technician receives the machine from the customer. The customers concerns are indicators for diagnostics. Then he does an external inspection. He turns the hand wheel. He performs a test sewing of straight, zig zag, and stretch stitches. He looks for problems and potential ones.
The technician then removes the covers to begin working on the sewing machine.
It is vital to make the sewing machine clean inside and out. The user needs to keep it that way. Old grease and oils dry out, crystallize, and harden. All the lint, debris, old grease, and gunk must be completely taken out.
Use pure clean sewing machine oil to lubricate clean metal to metal contacts. Use Triflow to lubricate plastic parts. Use gear grease on older metal gears along their teeth.
Mechanical sewing machines require frequent removal of old oils and grease and fresh application of lubrication. Metal to metal contacts will bind if the lubricant gets old and crystallized. Keeping lubricants fresh keeps the sewing machine operating smoothly.
The simple classic designs of the Necchi sewing machine make it one of the easiest sewing machines to repair and service. Most sewing machine shops will provide service, but only authorized dealers have ready access to Necchi parts except through after market sources.
Learning to do your own Necchi sewing machine repair is fairly quick and easy. Allyn International is very helpful in providing new dealers with excellent support. A basic sewing machine repair course will help you learn the fundamentals to effectively service Necchi sewing machines. Sewing machine repair instructions and Sewing machine repair manuals make it very easy to do repair. In an emergency, you can always ship a sewing machine to Allyn International for their national service center to perform repairs for your. While this can be costly, it does give significant assurance to the beginning sewing machine technician or user.
The classic Italian sewing machine brand known as Necchi is currently manufactured in Asia and marketed in the United States by Allyn International of Denver, Colorado. The line has developed a strong reputation for dependability and longevity.
My first training in sewing machine repair was Necchi Sewing Machine Repair. In 1992, it was my privilege to train at Allyn International, where I learned the basics of sewing machine repair. I deeply appreciated the willingness of Allyn International and the Necchi National Sewing Machine Repair Center to provide this training. This provided a solid foundation to master sewing machine repair across many brands of sewing machines.
Sewing machine repair skills with Necchi machines, easily transfer to working on other brands. The solid classic Necchi designs are very similar to other mechanical and mid line sewing machines.
When a person becomes an authorized dealer for Necchi sewing machines, they receive strong support and certification from Allyn International to represent and service machines.
The basis of all sewing machine service is the full service. The goal of the full service is to eliminate the causes of problems and fine tune the sewing machine to operate as close to new as possible. The primary cause of sewing machine failure is the collection of lint, dirt, debris, and crystallized lubricants. The full service sets out to thoroughly clean away those sources of problem while refurbishing the machine with fresh lubrication and readjustments.
Customers often seek quick fixes to reduce their costs of service, but are usually dissatisfied with the results. Many technicians willingly perform quick fixes, when a machine is broken or failing to perform as it should. They do so aware that the quick fix machine will probably be returned for additional service within a very short period of time. Most technicians refuse to warranty quick fix services because the underlying cause of failure has not been addressed. The clean and oil are usually warranted thirty to sixty days.
A clean and oil begins when the technician receives the machine from the customer. The customers concerns are indicators for diagnostics. Then he does an external inspection. He turns the hand wheel. He performs a test sewing of straight, zig zag, and stretch stitches. He looks for problems and potential ones.
The technician then removes the covers to begin working on the sewing machine.
It is vital to make the sewing machine clean inside and out. The user needs to keep it that way. Old grease and oils dry out, crystallize, and harden. All the lint, debris, old grease, and gunk must be completely taken out.
Use pure clean sewing machine oil to lubricate clean metal to metal contacts. Use Triflow to lubricate plastic parts. Use gear grease on older metal gears along their teeth.
Mechanical sewing machines require frequent removal of old oils and grease and fresh application of lubrication. Metal to metal contacts will bind if the lubricant gets old and crystallized. Keeping lubricants fresh keeps the sewing machine operating smoothly.
The simple classic designs of the Necchi sewing machine make it one of the easiest sewing machines to repair and service. Most sewing machine shops will provide service, but only authorized dealers have ready access to Necchi parts except through after market sources.
Learning to do your own Necchi sewing machine repair is fairly quick and easy. Allyn International is very helpful in providing new dealers with excellent support. A basic sewing machine repair course will help you learn the fundamentals to effectively service Necchi sewing machines. Sewing machine repair instructions and Sewing machine repair manuals make it very easy to do repair. In an emergency, you can always ship a sewing machine to Allyn International for their national service center to perform repairs for your. While this can be costly, it does give significant assurance to the beginning sewing machine technician or user.
Friday, February 6, 2009
Servicing Janome Sewing Machines
Did you know that the New Home sewing machines were actually Janome machines sold in America?
That is right. Today, the same company sells their sewing machines under the Janome brand.
You can find New Home Sewing Machine Repair Technicians all across America who have been trained and certified by Janome America in New Jersey.
New Home Sewing Machine Repair is available at regional repair centers for mail in warranty service.
In most large cities, you can contact independent sewing machine dealers who represent Janome and provide repair services. Janome works with about five hundred of these local sales and service centers.
New Home and Janome Sewing Machine Repair and parts are usually available through these service centers.
If you would like to become a Janome dealer, contact Janome of America in New Jersey. They have an automated request line where you can leave your name and contact information. The district sales director for your area will contact you with all the details of how to become an authorized sewing machine dealer for Janome.
You might consider learning how to do Janome sewing machine repair as a cost saving hobby or to open your own profitable business. You can discover sewing machine repair as it relates to Janome machines, by applying to become an authorized dealer and completing their training in New Jersey. By taking a sewing machine repair course or reading sewing machine repair manuals, you can discover without having to travel. A third, way you could learn Janome sewing machine repair is to work under a local sewing machine technician in their shop.
Janome is the largest manufacturer of sewing machines and has literally millions of models in use today. These machines may carry the brand name Janome, New Home, Kenmore, or a dozen other names. Learning how to repair Janome machines opens up a vast world of machines that you can repair.
How many different kinds of Janome machines are there to learn if I want to repair them? Thousands. Janome has made every conceivable type of sewing machine including treadles, mechanicals, electronic machines, and fully computerized sewing machines. They have made oscillating hook machines and rotary hook machines. When you know Janomes you really pretty much know most sewing machines.
Recently, Janome International completed their 50,000,000th sewing machine. The sheer volume of New Home and Janome sewing machines makes New Home Sewing Machine Repair a huge opportunity.
Contact your local Janome dealer to get professional sewing machine service. Or, learn to do your own sewing machine service and save hundreds of dollars every year. Or, master Janome sewing machine repair and launch your own profitable sewing machine repair business. The more you know about your sewing machine, the more you will enjoy using it.
Dr. David Trumble is an expert sewing machine technician who has authored many helpful sewing machine repair manuals. He reveals common items and brands as well as hard to find issues like the 6460 sewing machine repair manual. Pick up your free copy of his beginner's course here - Sewing Machine Repair.
That is right. Today, the same company sells their sewing machines under the Janome brand.
You can find New Home Sewing Machine Repair Technicians all across America who have been trained and certified by Janome America in New Jersey.
New Home Sewing Machine Repair is available at regional repair centers for mail in warranty service.
In most large cities, you can contact independent sewing machine dealers who represent Janome and provide repair services. Janome works with about five hundred of these local sales and service centers.
New Home and Janome Sewing Machine Repair and parts are usually available through these service centers.
If you would like to become a Janome dealer, contact Janome of America in New Jersey. They have an automated request line where you can leave your name and contact information. The district sales director for your area will contact you with all the details of how to become an authorized sewing machine dealer for Janome.
You might consider learning how to do Janome sewing machine repair as a cost saving hobby or to open your own profitable business. You can discover sewing machine repair as it relates to Janome machines, by applying to become an authorized dealer and completing their training in New Jersey. By taking a sewing machine repair course or reading sewing machine repair manuals, you can discover without having to travel. A third, way you could learn Janome sewing machine repair is to work under a local sewing machine technician in their shop.
Janome is the largest manufacturer of sewing machines and has literally millions of models in use today. These machines may carry the brand name Janome, New Home, Kenmore, or a dozen other names. Learning how to repair Janome machines opens up a vast world of machines that you can repair.
How many different kinds of Janome machines are there to learn if I want to repair them? Thousands. Janome has made every conceivable type of sewing machine including treadles, mechanicals, electronic machines, and fully computerized sewing machines. They have made oscillating hook machines and rotary hook machines. When you know Janomes you really pretty much know most sewing machines.
Recently, Janome International completed their 50,000,000th sewing machine. The sheer volume of New Home and Janome sewing machines makes New Home Sewing Machine Repair a huge opportunity.
Contact your local Janome dealer to get professional sewing machine service. Or, learn to do your own sewing machine service and save hundreds of dollars every year. Or, master Janome sewing machine repair and launch your own profitable sewing machine repair business. The more you know about your sewing machine, the more you will enjoy using it.
Dr. David Trumble is an expert sewing machine technician who has authored many helpful sewing machine repair manuals. He reveals common items and brands as well as hard to find issues like the 6460 sewing machine repair manual. Pick up your free copy of his beginner's course here - Sewing Machine Repair.
Wednesday, January 28, 2009
Major Brands Of Sewing Machines
As a sewing machine repair technician, it is important to be familiar with the home sewing machine market. As a hobbyist, doing your own "diy repair singer sewing machine" or other brand, it may not be quite as important. Yet, understanding what is available can help you feel and conduct yourself more professionally. The more you know the better you will be able to follow sewing machine repair instructions for many different models.
What does a sewing machine cost now? Prices vary from about $75 to over $12,000.
There is a wide range of sewing machines available today. You can get cheap junk, solid mechanicals, electronic, or computerized machines. Like most things in this world, you must pay for value, features, and dependability.
What are the major brands of sewing machines?
Generic sewing machines are machines made by a third party, but sold under the brand label. Among the better known generic brands are Bernette, Dressmaker, Kenmore, Necchi, Simplicity, Wards, and White. Some of these have already faded away, while others continue to generate good sales.
The Baby Lock brand started as an advanced line of home sergers in 1964. It is currently owned by Tacony Corporation in Fenton, Missouri. It has developed into a very popular sewing machine line offering some of the most advanced sewing machines. Baby Lock works with Brother International to produce many of its sewing machines, but continues to make its own premium sergers.
Japans Brother International makes many electronic products including sewing machines. It provides a low end line to mass merchants under the Brother label, and it markets its own high quality line under the Pacesetter By Brother label. In addition to these lines, Brother is well known for providing generic machines to associated brands.
Bernina is considered the Cadillac of the sewing machine industry. The company is fourth generation family owned and operated from Switzerland. Its quality is well known and the brand enjoys one of the highest brand loyalties. It is considered a luxury line of sewing machines. Bernina introduced the hem stitching machine, home zig zag machine, computerized sewing, and the only Microsoft Windows operating system on a sewing machine. Its newest offering is an amazing computerized combination sewing and embroidery machine with over 1,000 stitches, a twelve inch sewing arm, and a $12,000 price tag.
Elna Sewing Machines is somewhat of a step child line. Originally, the Elna line was made in Switzerland, but in recent years financial pressures have hurt production and sales. Recently, Janome purchased the company and is in the process of developing the line as a distinctively feminine styled sewing machine line. Within the near future, Elna will be designed jointly by Swiss and Janome designers, but providing a distinctive Elna machine line.
Husqavarna, also known as Viking, is a company that traces its roots to Sweden. It is an historic line of machines will known for durability and simplicity. Today it is owned by a conglomerate that also owns Singer and Pfaff. It is currently produced in China.
The worlds largest sewing machine manufacturer is Janome of Japan. They have made over 50,000,000 sewing machines. In the United States, it was previously marketed under the New Home brand, but is now marketed as Janome. Their Memory Craft line set a new standard for stitch quality and embroidery control by incorporating advance robotic technologies. It is also well known manufactures of several generic lines.
The German engineered Pfaff sewing machine line is held in high esteem as a true premium quality sewing machine. Originating in Germany, the brand takes its name from Georg Michael Pfaff who made his first machine In 1862. It is currently made in China.
Singer is the number one brand in the world of sewing. It has dominated the market since 1851. More Singers have been sold than any other brand. Today it is produced in China along with the Husqavarna and Pfaff lines. In many ways, the standing it once had has been lost to competitors, but it continues to be a popular brand. Do it yourself or diy repair singer sewing machine, is easy to learn when you have the right sewing machine repair books.
What does a sewing machine cost now? Prices vary from about $75 to over $12,000.
There is a wide range of sewing machines available today. You can get cheap junk, solid mechanicals, electronic, or computerized machines. Like most things in this world, you must pay for value, features, and dependability.
What are the major brands of sewing machines?
Generic sewing machines are machines made by a third party, but sold under the brand label. Among the better known generic brands are Bernette, Dressmaker, Kenmore, Necchi, Simplicity, Wards, and White. Some of these have already faded away, while others continue to generate good sales.
The Baby Lock brand started as an advanced line of home sergers in 1964. It is currently owned by Tacony Corporation in Fenton, Missouri. It has developed into a very popular sewing machine line offering some of the most advanced sewing machines. Baby Lock works with Brother International to produce many of its sewing machines, but continues to make its own premium sergers.
Japans Brother International makes many electronic products including sewing machines. It provides a low end line to mass merchants under the Brother label, and it markets its own high quality line under the Pacesetter By Brother label. In addition to these lines, Brother is well known for providing generic machines to associated brands.
Bernina is considered the Cadillac of the sewing machine industry. The company is fourth generation family owned and operated from Switzerland. Its quality is well known and the brand enjoys one of the highest brand loyalties. It is considered a luxury line of sewing machines. Bernina introduced the hem stitching machine, home zig zag machine, computerized sewing, and the only Microsoft Windows operating system on a sewing machine. Its newest offering is an amazing computerized combination sewing and embroidery machine with over 1,000 stitches, a twelve inch sewing arm, and a $12,000 price tag.
Elna Sewing Machines is somewhat of a step child line. Originally, the Elna line was made in Switzerland, but in recent years financial pressures have hurt production and sales. Recently, Janome purchased the company and is in the process of developing the line as a distinctively feminine styled sewing machine line. Within the near future, Elna will be designed jointly by Swiss and Janome designers, but providing a distinctive Elna machine line.
Husqavarna, also known as Viking, is a company that traces its roots to Sweden. It is an historic line of machines will known for durability and simplicity. Today it is owned by a conglomerate that also owns Singer and Pfaff. It is currently produced in China.
The worlds largest sewing machine manufacturer is Janome of Japan. They have made over 50,000,000 sewing machines. In the United States, it was previously marketed under the New Home brand, but is now marketed as Janome. Their Memory Craft line set a new standard for stitch quality and embroidery control by incorporating advance robotic technologies. It is also well known manufactures of several generic lines.
The German engineered Pfaff sewing machine line is held in high esteem as a true premium quality sewing machine. Originating in Germany, the brand takes its name from Georg Michael Pfaff who made his first machine In 1862. It is currently made in China.
Singer is the number one brand in the world of sewing. It has dominated the market since 1851. More Singers have been sold than any other brand. Today it is produced in China along with the Husqavarna and Pfaff lines. In many ways, the standing it once had has been lost to competitors, but it continues to be a popular brand. Do it yourself or diy repair singer sewing machine, is easy to learn when you have the right sewing machine repair books.
Thursday, January 15, 2009
Does Your Hook Rotate or Oscillate?
Whether you enjoy repairing sewing machines as a hobby, a job, or your own business, it can be both exciting and challenging. There are so many different models and designs, it can be difficult to keep up.
When you start tinkering with sewing machines, be ready to learn loads of information. You may consider checking out a sewing machine repair book for more details. There are literally thousands of different models and designs, but there are also some obvious similarities. One of the tricky areas of interest is the hook assembly.
A quick inspection of a sewing machine, and the technician can tell if the sewing machine hook assembly rotates or oscillates. These two types of mechanisms are very different, but perform the same basic function.
Find the bobbin on the sewing machine. Look under, around, or behind it to find the hook. Rotate the hand wheel forward and watch the hook move. How does it move? If it moves in a complete circle around the bobbin it is a rotary hook assembly. If you look closely, you can see that as the needle comes down and starts back up, the point of the hook slides behind the needle just above the eye. It picks up the thread and pulls it around the bobbin.
Where do you put the bobbin on this machine? I could be inserted in front, or top under the needle plate, or on the left end of the machine. If it is a top loading bobbin, the machine is usually a rotary hook machine.
A bobbin installed on the left side of the sewing machine may either have a rotary hook or an oscillating hook. The same is true of front loading sewing machines. For example, while Bernina sewing machines became famous for the CB Oscillating Hook System with front loading, they continue to use front loading on the high end rotary hook sewing machines.
It is easy to tell the difference. Rotary hooks rotate around the bobbin carrier in a continuous circle again and again. Oscillating hooks move to half way around and then go back to start again. The go back and forth – back and forth.
If you have any question, answer this. Does the hook move back and forth (Oscillating Hook) or in a complete circle (Rotary Hook)?
Watch closely. The point of the oscillating hook starts just a few millimeters to the left of the needle when it reaches its lowest point. As the needle rises, the hook moves behind the needle. A loop of thread forms in the small cut out on the back of the needle running above the eye called the scarf. The point of the hook grabs the thread here and pulls it around to the bottom where it releases the thread. It then oscillates back to its original position for another stitch. Bernina used their special patented CB Hook to become a premium sewing machine line.
Oscillating and Rotary hook systems do the same job. That job is pulling the thread from the needle around the bobbin carrier. The point of the hook slides behind and through the scarf of the needle to get the thread. Then it carries it to its destination.
In both cases, the action of the hook must precisely synchronize with the needle. Even slight variations cause problems. This synchronization is known as hook-needle timing. If you see skipped stitches, bad stitches, or none, check the hook-needle timing.
Adjusting the hook-needle timing is a very common adjustment. If the user breaks a needle, sews on excessively thick material, or debris builds up in the gears; the timing often gets jolted out of adjustment. The specifics of making this adjustment vary considerably from one model to another. Some adjust on gears located directly below the hook. Some adjust at the side or at the end of the lower shaft. Some use timing belts. The essential adjustment is always the same, however, in that the point of the needle must reach the scarf at precisely the right time and in the right way. Check the specific service manual for details on adjusting the hook-needle timing until you gain enough experience and knowledge to adjust it on the fly.
As long as there are millions of people using sewing machines, people will need sewing machine repair. You may just be the person to meet their needs either as a hobbyist or as you own business.
You can learn more about sewing machine repair and do it yourself sewing machine repair through the sewing machine repair instructions available through out links.
When you start tinkering with sewing machines, be ready to learn loads of information. You may consider checking out a sewing machine repair book for more details. There are literally thousands of different models and designs, but there are also some obvious similarities. One of the tricky areas of interest is the hook assembly.
A quick inspection of a sewing machine, and the technician can tell if the sewing machine hook assembly rotates or oscillates. These two types of mechanisms are very different, but perform the same basic function.
Find the bobbin on the sewing machine. Look under, around, or behind it to find the hook. Rotate the hand wheel forward and watch the hook move. How does it move? If it moves in a complete circle around the bobbin it is a rotary hook assembly. If you look closely, you can see that as the needle comes down and starts back up, the point of the hook slides behind the needle just above the eye. It picks up the thread and pulls it around the bobbin.
Where do you put the bobbin on this machine? I could be inserted in front, or top under the needle plate, or on the left end of the machine. If it is a top loading bobbin, the machine is usually a rotary hook machine.
A bobbin installed on the left side of the sewing machine may either have a rotary hook or an oscillating hook. The same is true of front loading sewing machines. For example, while Bernina sewing machines became famous for the CB Oscillating Hook System with front loading, they continue to use front loading on the high end rotary hook sewing machines.
It is easy to tell the difference. Rotary hooks rotate around the bobbin carrier in a continuous circle again and again. Oscillating hooks move to half way around and then go back to start again. The go back and forth – back and forth.
If you have any question, answer this. Does the hook move back and forth (Oscillating Hook) or in a complete circle (Rotary Hook)?
Watch closely. The point of the oscillating hook starts just a few millimeters to the left of the needle when it reaches its lowest point. As the needle rises, the hook moves behind the needle. A loop of thread forms in the small cut out on the back of the needle running above the eye called the scarf. The point of the hook grabs the thread here and pulls it around to the bottom where it releases the thread. It then oscillates back to its original position for another stitch. Bernina used their special patented CB Hook to become a premium sewing machine line.
Oscillating and Rotary hook systems do the same job. That job is pulling the thread from the needle around the bobbin carrier. The point of the hook slides behind and through the scarf of the needle to get the thread. Then it carries it to its destination.
In both cases, the action of the hook must precisely synchronize with the needle. Even slight variations cause problems. This synchronization is known as hook-needle timing. If you see skipped stitches, bad stitches, or none, check the hook-needle timing.
Adjusting the hook-needle timing is a very common adjustment. If the user breaks a needle, sews on excessively thick material, or debris builds up in the gears; the timing often gets jolted out of adjustment. The specifics of making this adjustment vary considerably from one model to another. Some adjust on gears located directly below the hook. Some adjust at the side or at the end of the lower shaft. Some use timing belts. The essential adjustment is always the same, however, in that the point of the needle must reach the scarf at precisely the right time and in the right way. Check the specific service manual for details on adjusting the hook-needle timing until you gain enough experience and knowledge to adjust it on the fly.
As long as there are millions of people using sewing machines, people will need sewing machine repair. You may just be the person to meet their needs either as a hobbyist or as you own business.
You can learn more about sewing machine repair and do it yourself sewing machine repair through the sewing machine repair instructions available through out links.
Sunday, January 4, 2009
Invention Of The Sewing Machine
While the focus of this blog is on sewing machine repair and sewing machine repair courses; understanding the origins of the sewing machine can be quite helpful. Certainly antique sewing machine repair helps keep alive the vital heritage of the history. The development of the sewing machine contributes greatly to the care and maintenance of the sewing machine.
History often tells a black and white story of events, but as most people come to realize as they grow older, reality is not always as we remember.
Elias Howe (1819-1867) created the first practical mechanical sewing machine in 1846 which is certified by a patent he filed that year.
It described “a process that used thread from two different sources”… The top thread passed through a curved needle with an eye at the pointed end. The needle would pierce through the fabric, while another thread contained in a shuttle passed through and caught the first thread forming a locked stitch.
Elias Howe had done it! His lockstitch machine could put out (250spm) as much as five speedy experienced hand sewers.
It was joked that Elias Howe was not actually the inventor of the sewing machine. Some said it was actually his wife. She got so upset with her husband that one day she made up her mind and in two hours invented the sewing machine. Elias, however, filed the patent taking credit for everything. (Russel Conwell, 1877).
We will never know the truth about exactly how it was done, but difficulties marketing the device and struggles over patent rights drained the Howe family of even greater success.
Others were watching and adapting. Isaac Singer (1811-1875) invented a mechanism that moved up and down. Allen Wilson originated a rotary hook shuttle.
By 1850, the race was on to deliver a practical sewing machine to industry and the home entered mass production. Isaac Singer led the way with the first commercially successful sewing machine with moving needle (up/down) powered by a foot treadle device to produce the same lockstitch designed by Howe. The famous foot treadle device was a huge advancement. Previous machines had all been hand crank machines.
Prior to Elias Howe’s patent, however, Walter Hunt (1796-1860)) launched a lockstitch machine (1834) using two threads and an eye-pointed needle, but he never filed a patent. Elias Howe sued Hunt for patent infringement, and a panic among garment workers fearing unemployment crushed Hunt’s enthusiasm. Hunt abandoned his efforts and the patent pursuit.
Seemingly endless legal battles ensued over patent infringements. In spite of winning the court battle (1854), Elias Howe largely lost the marketing battle.
Elias Howe marketed his machine earning an estimated two million dollars by the end of the Civil War.
Isaac Singer continued to improve on the sewing machine and market his own Singer sewing machine. Singer became a household name, and even today remains the best known brand of sewing machines.
Communities were desperate to get their hands on this exciting new invention. Towns would join together to buy one machine for the whole town. Soon the sewing machine became a necessary appliance for every home. By the 1950’s every home expected to have a sewing machine and a vacuum cleaner.
Antique sewing machine repair and general sewing machine repair are vital to maintaining our heritage of sewing machine history.
History often tells a black and white story of events, but as most people come to realize as they grow older, reality is not always as we remember.
Elias Howe (1819-1867) created the first practical mechanical sewing machine in 1846 which is certified by a patent he filed that year.
It described “a process that used thread from two different sources”… The top thread passed through a curved needle with an eye at the pointed end. The needle would pierce through the fabric, while another thread contained in a shuttle passed through and caught the first thread forming a locked stitch.
Elias Howe had done it! His lockstitch machine could put out (250spm) as much as five speedy experienced hand sewers.
It was joked that Elias Howe was not actually the inventor of the sewing machine. Some said it was actually his wife. She got so upset with her husband that one day she made up her mind and in two hours invented the sewing machine. Elias, however, filed the patent taking credit for everything. (Russel Conwell, 1877).
We will never know the truth about exactly how it was done, but difficulties marketing the device and struggles over patent rights drained the Howe family of even greater success.
Others were watching and adapting. Isaac Singer (1811-1875) invented a mechanism that moved up and down. Allen Wilson originated a rotary hook shuttle.
By 1850, the race was on to deliver a practical sewing machine to industry and the home entered mass production. Isaac Singer led the way with the first commercially successful sewing machine with moving needle (up/down) powered by a foot treadle device to produce the same lockstitch designed by Howe. The famous foot treadle device was a huge advancement. Previous machines had all been hand crank machines.
Prior to Elias Howe’s patent, however, Walter Hunt (1796-1860)) launched a lockstitch machine (1834) using two threads and an eye-pointed needle, but he never filed a patent. Elias Howe sued Hunt for patent infringement, and a panic among garment workers fearing unemployment crushed Hunt’s enthusiasm. Hunt abandoned his efforts and the patent pursuit.
Seemingly endless legal battles ensued over patent infringements. In spite of winning the court battle (1854), Elias Howe largely lost the marketing battle.
Elias Howe marketed his machine earning an estimated two million dollars by the end of the Civil War.
Isaac Singer continued to improve on the sewing machine and market his own Singer sewing machine. Singer became a household name, and even today remains the best known brand of sewing machines.
Communities were desperate to get their hands on this exciting new invention. Towns would join together to buy one machine for the whole town. Soon the sewing machine became a necessary appliance for every home. By the 1950’s every home expected to have a sewing machine and a vacuum cleaner.
Antique sewing machine repair and general sewing machine repair are vital to maintaining our heritage of sewing machine history.
Wednesday, December 31, 2008
A Practical Sewing Dictionary
If you are going to do sewing machine repair, you really need to understand sewing terms that are commonly used by your customers. It is their special language. You may not get a practical sewing dictionary in typical sewing machine repair courses, but you may still need a good sewing dictionary. Here is why.
What is a “1/4 foot”? “A Clapper”? or “In The Ditch”?
Recently a woman came into my store, and overheard some people in the classroom. She got this puzzled look on her face. Finally, she asked, “What language are they talking? It kind of sounds like English, but strange?”
Have you ever overheard a group of people using words you didn’t understand? You might think they are talking a strange language. It sure did not “seam” like English, but it did not sound much like it.
There are many fields of endeavor, hobbies, and interest with their own special terms.
Over the years, the language of sewing has become a bit easier, but every once in a while somebody says something that just leaves me bewildered. If you are new to sewing or quilting, you probably understand.
There is a whole unique vocabulary used by people who enjoy sewing and quilting. There hare hundres of specific sewing terms. It can take years to learn all the ins and outs of this language. While the words themselves may sound familiar, they often have very specific meanings only understood by avid sewers.
You might hear the word “Clapper” and think someone is referring to applause. When the word is used in sewing, it refers to a special tool used to press a crease.
When you hear the word “Yoke”, you might think the person said “joke”. But it is no joking matter. To a seamstress the word “yoke” means the part of a garment running horizontally across it. It includes panels such as garment pieces covering shoulder, waist, midriff, or back.
If you overheard older ladies talking about how important it is to use a “scant quarter” or “1/4 foot”, you might imagine they were quite fugal, penny pinching, concerned about quarters, maybe even skinflints. Instead, they would be talking about using a special part of a sewing machine to insure exact quarter inch seam allowances.
If your sewing teacher told to sew “in the ditch”, she would not be talking about the gutter, or even the drain along side of the road. She would be talking about a sewing technique in which the sewer sews a seam in the well or crack formed when another seam has already been sewn on the opposite side of the fabric. The result is a seam that is all but invisible.
Years ago, my husband heard a salesman use the word “serged edge”. He was embarrassed to say anything, but he had no clue. It made no sense. Later, he came to me and asked. I explained that this was simply a way to overcast the edge of a fabric so that it would not ravel under use.
Without help sewing words like, “CB Hook”, “Chapel Train”, “Cheater Panel”, and “Cut Work”; may have no meaning whatsoever. And that is just a few out of the c’s.
There are literally thousands of sewing terms just like these. The learning process can be tedious and frustrating, but with a little help all these terms will make sense.
There are three ways to find out what these sewing terms mean. First, you can ask your sewing teacher or other experienced sewing what a term means. Second, you can read sewing books which may include a limited glossary. Third, you can find the definitions in a good sewing dictionary.
If this still “seams” strange to you, maybe you need to follow my mother’s old adage: “If you really want to know look it up in the dictionary.” A generic dictionary may not explain the terms in a way that relates clearly to your sewing, but a sewing dictionary will do a good job making sense of these special terms.
Dr. David Trumble has produced such a practical sewing dictionary entitled My Sewing Dictionary.
What is a “1/4 foot”? “A Clapper”? or “In The Ditch”?
Recently a woman came into my store, and overheard some people in the classroom. She got this puzzled look on her face. Finally, she asked, “What language are they talking? It kind of sounds like English, but strange?”
Have you ever overheard a group of people using words you didn’t understand? You might think they are talking a strange language. It sure did not “seam” like English, but it did not sound much like it.
There are many fields of endeavor, hobbies, and interest with their own special terms.
Over the years, the language of sewing has become a bit easier, but every once in a while somebody says something that just leaves me bewildered. If you are new to sewing or quilting, you probably understand.
There is a whole unique vocabulary used by people who enjoy sewing and quilting. There hare hundres of specific sewing terms. It can take years to learn all the ins and outs of this language. While the words themselves may sound familiar, they often have very specific meanings only understood by avid sewers.
You might hear the word “Clapper” and think someone is referring to applause. When the word is used in sewing, it refers to a special tool used to press a crease.
When you hear the word “Yoke”, you might think the person said “joke”. But it is no joking matter. To a seamstress the word “yoke” means the part of a garment running horizontally across it. It includes panels such as garment pieces covering shoulder, waist, midriff, or back.
If you overheard older ladies talking about how important it is to use a “scant quarter” or “1/4 foot”, you might imagine they were quite fugal, penny pinching, concerned about quarters, maybe even skinflints. Instead, they would be talking about using a special part of a sewing machine to insure exact quarter inch seam allowances.
If your sewing teacher told to sew “in the ditch”, she would not be talking about the gutter, or even the drain along side of the road. She would be talking about a sewing technique in which the sewer sews a seam in the well or crack formed when another seam has already been sewn on the opposite side of the fabric. The result is a seam that is all but invisible.
Years ago, my husband heard a salesman use the word “serged edge”. He was embarrassed to say anything, but he had no clue. It made no sense. Later, he came to me and asked. I explained that this was simply a way to overcast the edge of a fabric so that it would not ravel under use.
Without help sewing words like, “CB Hook”, “Chapel Train”, “Cheater Panel”, and “Cut Work”; may have no meaning whatsoever. And that is just a few out of the c’s.
There are literally thousands of sewing terms just like these. The learning process can be tedious and frustrating, but with a little help all these terms will make sense.
There are three ways to find out what these sewing terms mean. First, you can ask your sewing teacher or other experienced sewing what a term means. Second, you can read sewing books which may include a limited glossary. Third, you can find the definitions in a good sewing dictionary.
If this still “seams” strange to you, maybe you need to follow my mother’s old adage: “If you really want to know look it up in the dictionary.” A generic dictionary may not explain the terms in a way that relates clearly to your sewing, but a sewing dictionary will do a good job making sense of these special terms.
Dr. David Trumble has produced such a practical sewing dictionary entitled My Sewing Dictionary.
Thursday, December 11, 2008
Sewing Machine Repair Books And Videos
Where can you find quality sewing machine repair books and videos?
Where can you learn how to do sewing machine repair?
Where can you get help when you get stumped with a sewing machine repair?
These are some pretty heafty questions. The answers are fairly simple, however.
Where can you learn how to do sewing machine repair?
Where can you get help when you get stumped with a sewing machine repair?
These are some pretty heafty questions. The answers are fairly simple, however.
You can find sewing machine repair books and videos at several places. First, you can find them online. The largest collection and most indepth resources are available at Fix Sewing Machines. Com. This website offers over 18 different sewing machine books and videos. This wide range of how to repair sewing machines ebooks includes:
Sewing Machine Repair TNT
Your Own Sewing Machine Repair Business
How To Sell Sewing Machines
My Own Sewing Machine Store
My Own Sewing Machine Store
This website is also full of free tips and tricks to make your sewing machine repair efforts highly successful.
From this site you can learn how to do your own sewing machine repair. You can also learn how to launch your own profitable sewing machine repair business. These resources are practical and based on over 30 years of experience.
Where can you get help when you get stumped with a sewing machine repair?
The support program for students of Fix Sewing Machines. Com includes the assistance of professional sewing machine repair at our local repair center in Killeen, Texas. So if you get stumped, you have a solution at wholesale rates to enable you to make a profit even if we do the work for you.
You can find quality sewing machine repair books and videos and learn how to do your own sewing machine repair.
Tuesday, December 9, 2008
Sewing Machine Repair - Hook Burrs
A quality sewing machine repair course will cover these kinds of repair in detail, but the basics of repairing a flawed hook are as follows.
A flawed hook is a common problem that affects tensions, stitch quality, and even timing. The development of burrs on the hook's point can make sewing very frustrating. Flaws on the hook require sewing machine repair immediately.
While the hook does not look like a needle, it functions in much the same way as the needle.
The needle draws the upper thread down through the hole in the needle plate. It accomplishes this by having the upper thread threaded through the eye of the needle. The thread slides tightly into the groove on the front of the needle so prevent it from snagging. As the needle reaches its lowest position it begins moving back up. The thread it is drawing is now loose and forms a loop on the back of the needle. The needle has a cut out on its back called a scarf. The scarf accentuates this loop.
The hook has no eye, but it does have a point.
At just the right time the point of the hook slides behind the needle in the middle of the scarf. The point enters the thread loop. It slides between the needle and the thread. The needle continues to move upward and out of the bobbin area. The hook continues to move drawing the thread around the bobbin. The upper thread and bobbin thread wrap together to form a stitch.
The point of the hook, however, must be sharp and free of nicks, scratches, and burrs. If the hook develops rough spots, scratches, or nicks in its surface, it can snag the thread and mess up the stitch. The most common issue is the development of burrs on the tip of the hook point. A burr is an irregularly formed flaw in the surface of the point.
You can identify these flaws by gently drawing your finger over the surface of the hook near the point. Feel for irregularities. If it has a burr, you may feel like there is little ball on the end of the point. There may a chip, or other distortion. You may also see these by use of a light and magnifier.
These flaws must be removed. Use of emery cloth, sandpaper, or a small file are commonly necessary. In extreme cases you may need to use a dremel tool. In all cases, the surface and point of the hook must be smooth.
If the damage to the hook is so extreme that it can not be buffed our smoothed, replace it.
To replace the hook assembly, will require the services of a professional sewing machine repair technician or completion of a sewing machine repair course.
A flawed hook is a common problem that affects tensions, stitch quality, and even timing. The development of burrs on the hook's point can make sewing very frustrating. Flaws on the hook require sewing machine repair immediately.
While the hook does not look like a needle, it functions in much the same way as the needle.
The needle draws the upper thread down through the hole in the needle plate. It accomplishes this by having the upper thread threaded through the eye of the needle. The thread slides tightly into the groove on the front of the needle so prevent it from snagging. As the needle reaches its lowest position it begins moving back up. The thread it is drawing is now loose and forms a loop on the back of the needle. The needle has a cut out on its back called a scarf. The scarf accentuates this loop.
The hook has no eye, but it does have a point.
At just the right time the point of the hook slides behind the needle in the middle of the scarf. The point enters the thread loop. It slides between the needle and the thread. The needle continues to move upward and out of the bobbin area. The hook continues to move drawing the thread around the bobbin. The upper thread and bobbin thread wrap together to form a stitch.
The point of the hook, however, must be sharp and free of nicks, scratches, and burrs. If the hook develops rough spots, scratches, or nicks in its surface, it can snag the thread and mess up the stitch. The most common issue is the development of burrs on the tip of the hook point. A burr is an irregularly formed flaw in the surface of the point.
You can identify these flaws by gently drawing your finger over the surface of the hook near the point. Feel for irregularities. If it has a burr, you may feel like there is little ball on the end of the point. There may a chip, or other distortion. You may also see these by use of a light and magnifier.
These flaws must be removed. Use of emery cloth, sandpaper, or a small file are commonly necessary. In extreme cases you may need to use a dremel tool. In all cases, the surface and point of the hook must be smooth.
If the damage to the hook is so extreme that it can not be buffed our smoothed, replace it.
To replace the hook assembly, will require the services of a professional sewing machine repair technician or completion of a sewing machine repair course.
Thursday, December 4, 2008
Tension Snags Part 2
In the previous post, we examined the overall issues of snags that can affect tensions.
In this post, lets take a step by step sewing machine repair course approach.
Our goal is to identify anything that might cause the sewing machine tensions to mess up.
Our tools for this exercise consist of our eyes and our fingers. Isn't it nice to know you do not have to buy a $75 dollar tool for this?
Begin at the thread spool. Look closely at the thread spool itself. Is there any roughness, groove, or irregularity in the top of the spool itself that might snag the thread. Use your finger to gently slide over any questionable spots.
If you find a potential problem, solve it before you proceed. As mentioned in the previous post, you may be able to use a spool cap or alternate (horizontal or vertical) spool pin. You may need to use a file to smooth a rough spot. Be careful that you do not create a flat surface that looks smooth but may catch thread on the end of the flat area. Maintain the curves while you smooth out the rough spots.
Using the same technique follow the entire upper thread line looking for potential snag spots. Examine the thread guides for rust, burrs, old lint, bends or twists that might be problems. Remove rust, burrs, and lint using a small brush or file as needed.
Examine the upper tension assembly. Lint often catches in the tension disc causing snags for new thread passing through. Rust is often a problem on older machines. Make sure there are no obstructions to the flow of the thread.
Change the needle regularly (ever 3 hours of sewing or so). Needles are notorious for developing sticky surfaces, burrs, dull points, and bending. The solution is replacement. If you are having tension problems, the first thing to do is rethread. The second is to replace the needle. You can often save frustration by making this just one quick step.
The bobbin are is very similar to the top thread path, but it is more hidden. You know the problem, "Out of site, out of mind.". Begin by cleaning out the bobbin area using compressed air and a brush. It must be clear of debris before you can properly diagnose it.
Examine the surface of the bobbin itself. Is there rust on that old metal bobbin? Throw it out. Is the edge of the bobbin got a rough spot on it? Throw it out.
Examine the surface of the bobbin carrier. In many cases, you will need to remove the carrier and check all of its surfaces. Metal carrier are more prone to rust, while plastic carriers are more prone to thread scoring and rough spots. Rusty carriers can sometimes be buffed to remove the rust, but usually it is best to replace the carrier. Plastic carriers can sometimes be smoothed with a gentle filing, but again may need to be replaced.
Examine the race. This is the track or groove in which the carrier sits and around which the hook moves. Use your fingers to check for rough spots. Remove the rought spots with emery cloth, file, or sandpaper.
Examine the hook itself. This is a common place to find burrs. The tip of the hook may strike the needle or debris during the course of sewing. Remove the burr and make sure the tip is sharp but smooth.
Sewing machine repair often involves great attention to tension issues. The user must be careful to use good sewing practices to avoid many of these problems. A good sewing machine repair course can help you prevent these problems as well as solve them.
In this post, lets take a step by step sewing machine repair course approach.
Our goal is to identify anything that might cause the sewing machine tensions to mess up.
Our tools for this exercise consist of our eyes and our fingers. Isn't it nice to know you do not have to buy a $75 dollar tool for this?
Begin at the thread spool. Look closely at the thread spool itself. Is there any roughness, groove, or irregularity in the top of the spool itself that might snag the thread. Use your finger to gently slide over any questionable spots.
If you find a potential problem, solve it before you proceed. As mentioned in the previous post, you may be able to use a spool cap or alternate (horizontal or vertical) spool pin. You may need to use a file to smooth a rough spot. Be careful that you do not create a flat surface that looks smooth but may catch thread on the end of the flat area. Maintain the curves while you smooth out the rough spots.
Using the same technique follow the entire upper thread line looking for potential snag spots. Examine the thread guides for rust, burrs, old lint, bends or twists that might be problems. Remove rust, burrs, and lint using a small brush or file as needed.
Examine the upper tension assembly. Lint often catches in the tension disc causing snags for new thread passing through. Rust is often a problem on older machines. Make sure there are no obstructions to the flow of the thread.
Change the needle regularly (ever 3 hours of sewing or so). Needles are notorious for developing sticky surfaces, burrs, dull points, and bending. The solution is replacement. If you are having tension problems, the first thing to do is rethread. The second is to replace the needle. You can often save frustration by making this just one quick step.
The bobbin are is very similar to the top thread path, but it is more hidden. You know the problem, "Out of site, out of mind.". Begin by cleaning out the bobbin area using compressed air and a brush. It must be clear of debris before you can properly diagnose it.
Examine the surface of the bobbin itself. Is there rust on that old metal bobbin? Throw it out. Is the edge of the bobbin got a rough spot on it? Throw it out.
Examine the surface of the bobbin carrier. In many cases, you will need to remove the carrier and check all of its surfaces. Metal carrier are more prone to rust, while plastic carriers are more prone to thread scoring and rough spots. Rusty carriers can sometimes be buffed to remove the rust, but usually it is best to replace the carrier. Plastic carriers can sometimes be smoothed with a gentle filing, but again may need to be replaced.
Examine the race. This is the track or groove in which the carrier sits and around which the hook moves. Use your fingers to check for rough spots. Remove the rought spots with emery cloth, file, or sandpaper.
Examine the hook itself. This is a common place to find burrs. The tip of the hook may strike the needle or debris during the course of sewing. Remove the burr and make sure the tip is sharp but smooth.
Sewing machine repair often involves great attention to tension issues. The user must be careful to use good sewing practices to avoid many of these problems. A good sewing machine repair course can help you prevent these problems as well as solve them.
Monday, December 1, 2008
Tension Snags Part 1
Over the last several posts, we have examined sewing machine tension and sewing machine repair as it relates to tensions. We have defined, explained, illustrated, and described proper sewing machine tensions. We have discussed how to adjust the bobbin tension and the upper tensions.
In this post, we will begin our discussion of tension snags.
Often the thread will snag on thread spools, rusty spots, or other surface distortions.
One of the easiest ways to fix tension snags is to rethread the machine. Double check for smooth thread flow while you rethread. Especially notice how the thread flows off the thread spool. It is quite common for the thread to snag on the edge of the spool itself. Use of a spool cap or flipping the spool up the opposite way can usually eliminate this problem. If you are using specialty thread on an oddly shaped spool, check to see if a vertical spool pin or horizontal one works best in your situation.
When you thread your sewing machine, always lift the presser foot until your reach the eye of the needle. Then drop the presser foot. This technique will go a long way in preventing problems.
During the normal sewing process, wear and tear on the sewing machine are common. When you consider that the average home sewing machine sews 650 stitches per minute, it is easy to see how little surface abrasions can occur.
As we have described before, to form a stitch upper thread is drawn through several thread guides. It is pinched between tension discs. It is tugged and pulled by springs and levers. Finally it is threaded through the eye of the needle. There are literally dozens of spots where problems can happen along this path.
And this is only the beginning. Under the needle plate, thread is wound on a bobbin. It is then drawn up through a lower tension and twisted around the upper thread to draw it up through the needle plate.
Once you begin sewing at 650 stitches per minute, dozens of sewing machine parts begin moving. They pull, tug, rotate, and twist in harmoneously coordinated action.
The result of all of this are the eventual snags that affect the quality of stitch and tensions. As the thread moves back and forth it can often score or cut into the surface of sewing machine parts.
The sewing machine repair technician needs to take time to examine all the surfaces of the sewing machine along the thread path to identify and repair problems.
In our next post, I will detail specific locations to check and how to repair most tension snags. If you want more detailed instruction on this, check out my free ebook 7 Steps To Peak Performance For Sewing Machines. You might also consider one of my extensive sewing machine repair courses.
In this post, we will begin our discussion of tension snags.
Often the thread will snag on thread spools, rusty spots, or other surface distortions.
One of the easiest ways to fix tension snags is to rethread the machine. Double check for smooth thread flow while you rethread. Especially notice how the thread flows off the thread spool. It is quite common for the thread to snag on the edge of the spool itself. Use of a spool cap or flipping the spool up the opposite way can usually eliminate this problem. If you are using specialty thread on an oddly shaped spool, check to see if a vertical spool pin or horizontal one works best in your situation.
When you thread your sewing machine, always lift the presser foot until your reach the eye of the needle. Then drop the presser foot. This technique will go a long way in preventing problems.
During the normal sewing process, wear and tear on the sewing machine are common. When you consider that the average home sewing machine sews 650 stitches per minute, it is easy to see how little surface abrasions can occur.
As we have described before, to form a stitch upper thread is drawn through several thread guides. It is pinched between tension discs. It is tugged and pulled by springs and levers. Finally it is threaded through the eye of the needle. There are literally dozens of spots where problems can happen along this path.
And this is only the beginning. Under the needle plate, thread is wound on a bobbin. It is then drawn up through a lower tension and twisted around the upper thread to draw it up through the needle plate.
Once you begin sewing at 650 stitches per minute, dozens of sewing machine parts begin moving. They pull, tug, rotate, and twist in harmoneously coordinated action.
The result of all of this are the eventual snags that affect the quality of stitch and tensions. As the thread moves back and forth it can often score or cut into the surface of sewing machine parts.
The sewing machine repair technician needs to take time to examine all the surfaces of the sewing machine along the thread path to identify and repair problems.
In our next post, I will detail specific locations to check and how to repair most tension snags. If you want more detailed instruction on this, check out my free ebook 7 Steps To Peak Performance For Sewing Machines. You might also consider one of my extensive sewing machine repair courses.
Tuesday, November 25, 2008
Sewing Machine Tensions Part 5
A large number of sewing machine repairs are related to sewing machine tension issues. In previous posts, we have discussed the basics of tension, threading, and adjusting the bobbin tensions.
In this post, we will quickly review the adjustment of the upper tension. As we do so, keep in mind that balancing tensions requires the pull from the bobbin be equal with the pull from the top thread. Whenever top or bottom is greater, the thread will pile up on that side of the fabric.
You can also learn these vital skills by taking a sewing machine repair course or a series of sewing machine repair courses.
The upper sewing machine tension assembly consists of a set of tension discs that press from opposite sided against the upper thread to create resistance. The assembly also includes an internal tension spring, a pin to relieve pressure when you lift the presser foot, an adjusting knob, and a tensioning spring to maintain consistent thread position. The tensions assembly is usually held in place by a set screw. The screw may be reached through the opened needle bar cover or by removing the top cover.
The tension assembly on older sewing machines is prone to rust and surface deterioration. This may require parts or the entire assembly to be replaced.
Sometimes grit and grim gum up the pressure release pin. This is solved by disassembling the tension assembly and thoroughly cleaning it. When you reassemble the upper tension assembly, a drop of oil on the pressure release pin is advisable, but do not get oil on the tension discs.
Also look for burrs, knicks, or thread scores that may snag the thread or alter the tension. These will need to be removed, buffed, or otherwise eliminated.
A vital key to sewing machine repair is remembering how things go back together. In some cases, it is easy to take things apart, but if you get careless... It might never go back together the way it should. Therefore, when you are repairing sewing machines, always take the parts you remove and place them neatly in their proper order in a safe place. When you are ready to reassemble the parts, just reverse the disassembly process and you will get it right every time.
To adjust the upper tension, simply turn the tension adjust knob. Turn it to the right to increase tension. Turn it to the left to decrease the tension. "Righty tighty, lefty loosy."
When you finish adjusting the tensions, adjust the knob so that it looks right to the user. Many users believe a certain number (3 or 5) is essential. Actually, this is only for cosmetic purposes. But often you can not convince the user otherwise.
In our next post, we will examine several trouble spots affecting tensions and sewing machine repair.
In this post, we will quickly review the adjustment of the upper tension. As we do so, keep in mind that balancing tensions requires the pull from the bobbin be equal with the pull from the top thread. Whenever top or bottom is greater, the thread will pile up on that side of the fabric.
You can also learn these vital skills by taking a sewing machine repair course or a series of sewing machine repair courses.
The upper sewing machine tension assembly consists of a set of tension discs that press from opposite sided against the upper thread to create resistance. The assembly also includes an internal tension spring, a pin to relieve pressure when you lift the presser foot, an adjusting knob, and a tensioning spring to maintain consistent thread position. The tensions assembly is usually held in place by a set screw. The screw may be reached through the opened needle bar cover or by removing the top cover.
The tension assembly on older sewing machines is prone to rust and surface deterioration. This may require parts or the entire assembly to be replaced.
Sometimes grit and grim gum up the pressure release pin. This is solved by disassembling the tension assembly and thoroughly cleaning it. When you reassemble the upper tension assembly, a drop of oil on the pressure release pin is advisable, but do not get oil on the tension discs.
Also look for burrs, knicks, or thread scores that may snag the thread or alter the tension. These will need to be removed, buffed, or otherwise eliminated.
A vital key to sewing machine repair is remembering how things go back together. In some cases, it is easy to take things apart, but if you get careless... It might never go back together the way it should. Therefore, when you are repairing sewing machines, always take the parts you remove and place them neatly in their proper order in a safe place. When you are ready to reassemble the parts, just reverse the disassembly process and you will get it right every time.
To adjust the upper tension, simply turn the tension adjust knob. Turn it to the right to increase tension. Turn it to the left to decrease the tension. "Righty tighty, lefty loosy."
When you finish adjusting the tensions, adjust the knob so that it looks right to the user. Many users believe a certain number (3 or 5) is essential. Actually, this is only for cosmetic purposes. But often you can not convince the user otherwise.
In our next post, we will examine several trouble spots affecting tensions and sewing machine repair.
Wednesday, November 5, 2008
Sewing Machine Tensions Part 4
How do you adjust the bobbin tension?
How do you Sewing Adjust Bobbin Tension?
Tensions can be a common cause of problems. In extreme cases this may require the assistance of a professional sewing machine repair technician. It may be helpful to take a sewing machine repair course or maybe even several sewing machine repair courses to master tensions adjustments.
Understanding how tensions work is essential for every sewing machine user. Sewing Adjust Bobbin Tension affects every stitch.
Some users dread dealing with tensions all together and just pray the stitch will look OK. Adjusting tensions, however, is easier than you might think.
As we have seen, tension is the amount of drag or resistance on the thread as it moves through the sewing machine. The tension on top and on bottom should balance properly. Perfect tensions will produce threads joined in the middle of the fabric with no excess thread on top or the bottom of the fabric.
There are two critical adjustments required to achieve this perfect tensions. First, is the bobbin tension. Second, is the upper thread tension.
Lets take a look at the Bobbin Tension System.
Antique sewing machines often used shuttles mounted underneath the machine. While there are a variety of different designs, the essentials are the same. Today, Bobbin Tension may involve top loading bobbins, front loading bobbins, or even side loading bobbins.
Thread is wound on a bobbin The bobbin is placed into a case or holder. (For more information on bobbin tension with shuttles check out Antique Sewing Machine Repair). The thread in the bobbin is drawn through a tension device or spring and up to the top of the sewing platform.
Important for Sewing Adjust Bobbin Tension.
1. Be sure you have the right bobbin. This is vital for Sewing Adjust Bobbin Tension.
2. Be sure the bobbin thread is properly wound with no loops or loose threads and not too tight either. The thread should be smoothly wound around the bobbin.
3. Be sure to place the bobbin in the bobbin carrier exactly the way your sewing machine manual says. Follow your instruction manual for Sewing Adjust Bobbin Tension. The bobbin thread usually moves from left to right or clockwise around the bobbin as it turns. However, there are models that are exactly the reverse. The key is to observe how the thread enters the bobbin carrier tension assembly. The thread should trail back under the tension so that it does not slip out during use.
4. Thread through the lower tension. Usually, this means the bobbin thread will peal back through the bobbin tension rather than follow along or just flop in the wind. Notice the piece of metal on top right of the carrier. A small metal spring usually built into the bobbin carrier applies pressure or resistance to the bobbin thread. This is the bobbin tension spring. A tiny screw holds the tension spring in place. Turning this screw to the right will tighten the lower tension. Turning it to the left will loosen the bobbin tension. (“Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosey”).
5. Some bobbin carriers are built into the machine or fasten in place to receive the bobbin. Other bobbin carriers are made as bobbin cases which detach from the machine to receive the bobbin and then are reinserted after loading the bobbin.
Test the tension of removable bobbin carriers by doing the following.
Pull off about six inches of bobbin thread through the tension.
Dangle the bobbin carrier with the bobbin in it while holding the thread above it. The lower tension should hold the carrier so that it does not drop. If it does, just turn the screw a quarter turn to the right. If it does not drop, try bouncing the carrier a little. If the tension is properly set, the carrier will drop a little and stop. If it does drop a couple of inches and stops, all is good.
If the carrier does not drop at all even after pretty good bounce, the tension is too tight. Turn the screw a quarter turn to the left. Try again.
Many machines have a drop in bobbin that fits into a bobbin carrier below the needle plate. Once the bobbin is placed in the carrier, the thread is drawn under a tension spring. The same gentle pull test used in the front loading bobbin can be used with the drop in bobbin, but it is a bit less precise. If you continue to experience difficulties with the bobbin tension, it may be adjusted by turning the small tension screw on the spring of the bobbin carrier.
You may also seek the expert assistance of your local sewing machine repair technician if needed. You may also consider a number of sewing machine repair courses. A special spring loaded gauge may be used to measure the actual tension on the string, but in most cases it is not required.
Double check to identify any worn parts that might snag the thread. If you find a rough spot, burr, or other such spot, correct the problem before bringing the thread up through the needle plate hole and preparing to sew.
How do you Sewing Adjust Bobbin Tension?
Tensions can be a common cause of problems. In extreme cases this may require the assistance of a professional sewing machine repair technician. It may be helpful to take a sewing machine repair course or maybe even several sewing machine repair courses to master tensions adjustments.
Understanding how tensions work is essential for every sewing machine user. Sewing Adjust Bobbin Tension affects every stitch.
Some users dread dealing with tensions all together and just pray the stitch will look OK. Adjusting tensions, however, is easier than you might think.
As we have seen, tension is the amount of drag or resistance on the thread as it moves through the sewing machine. The tension on top and on bottom should balance properly. Perfect tensions will produce threads joined in the middle of the fabric with no excess thread on top or the bottom of the fabric.
There are two critical adjustments required to achieve this perfect tensions. First, is the bobbin tension. Second, is the upper thread tension.
Lets take a look at the Bobbin Tension System.
Antique sewing machines often used shuttles mounted underneath the machine. While there are a variety of different designs, the essentials are the same. Today, Bobbin Tension may involve top loading bobbins, front loading bobbins, or even side loading bobbins.
Thread is wound on a bobbin The bobbin is placed into a case or holder. (For more information on bobbin tension with shuttles check out Antique Sewing Machine Repair). The thread in the bobbin is drawn through a tension device or spring and up to the top of the sewing platform.
Important for Sewing Adjust Bobbin Tension.
1. Be sure you have the right bobbin. This is vital for Sewing Adjust Bobbin Tension.
2. Be sure the bobbin thread is properly wound with no loops or loose threads and not too tight either. The thread should be smoothly wound around the bobbin.
3. Be sure to place the bobbin in the bobbin carrier exactly the way your sewing machine manual says. Follow your instruction manual for Sewing Adjust Bobbin Tension. The bobbin thread usually moves from left to right or clockwise around the bobbin as it turns. However, there are models that are exactly the reverse. The key is to observe how the thread enters the bobbin carrier tension assembly. The thread should trail back under the tension so that it does not slip out during use.
4. Thread through the lower tension. Usually, this means the bobbin thread will peal back through the bobbin tension rather than follow along or just flop in the wind. Notice the piece of metal on top right of the carrier. A small metal spring usually built into the bobbin carrier applies pressure or resistance to the bobbin thread. This is the bobbin tension spring. A tiny screw holds the tension spring in place. Turning this screw to the right will tighten the lower tension. Turning it to the left will loosen the bobbin tension. (“Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosey”).
5. Some bobbin carriers are built into the machine or fasten in place to receive the bobbin. Other bobbin carriers are made as bobbin cases which detach from the machine to receive the bobbin and then are reinserted after loading the bobbin.
Test the tension of removable bobbin carriers by doing the following.
Pull off about six inches of bobbin thread through the tension.
Dangle the bobbin carrier with the bobbin in it while holding the thread above it. The lower tension should hold the carrier so that it does not drop. If it does, just turn the screw a quarter turn to the right. If it does not drop, try bouncing the carrier a little. If the tension is properly set, the carrier will drop a little and stop. If it does drop a couple of inches and stops, all is good.
If the carrier does not drop at all even after pretty good bounce, the tension is too tight. Turn the screw a quarter turn to the left. Try again.
Many machines have a drop in bobbin that fits into a bobbin carrier below the needle plate. Once the bobbin is placed in the carrier, the thread is drawn under a tension spring. The same gentle pull test used in the front loading bobbin can be used with the drop in bobbin, but it is a bit less precise. If you continue to experience difficulties with the bobbin tension, it may be adjusted by turning the small tension screw on the spring of the bobbin carrier.
You may also seek the expert assistance of your local sewing machine repair technician if needed. You may also consider a number of sewing machine repair courses. A special spring loaded gauge may be used to measure the actual tension on the string, but in most cases it is not required.
Double check to identify any worn parts that might snag the thread. If you find a rough spot, burr, or other such spot, correct the problem before bringing the thread up through the needle plate hole and preparing to sew.
Monday, November 3, 2008
Sewing Machine Tensions Part 3
Sewing machine performance is often measured by the quality of stitches it produces. If the tension are messed up, the quality will be poor. In this case, it does not matter whether the sewing machine was a $99 special or a $12,000 Bernina. Perfect tension is a must.
If extreme cases, you may need to see your professional sewing machine repair technician. You may even want to take a sewing machine repair course or a series of sewing machine repair courses. The more you understand sewing machine tensions, the easier sewing will be.
Like two teams playing tug of war, rope is stretched across a stream (or line). Each team pulls on their end of the rope. One team pulls harder than the other. Them the other team pulls harder. Back and forth the teams pull against each other. Eventually, the reach a stalemate. The pull of each team is offset by the pull of the other team.
Like a playground teetertaughter, one person straddles the board on each end. First one pushes off and up they go. The other comes down, and pushes off. Up they go. Up and down. Down and up. Then the two kids work to position them self just right. They push off so gently and easily that the board comes to balance with the two kids both half way up.
Sewing machine tensions are just like these two examples. Tension is by definition the amount of pull, drag, or resistance the thread has as it flows through the sewing motion.
Along the top of the sewing machine, is the upper thread that passes through the tension discs, the tension spring, the take up lever, and eventually the eye of the needle.
On the bottom is the bobbin. It rides secluded inside its bobbin carrier, with its thread neatly flowing under the bobbin tension spring.
The top thread is drawn down into the sewing machine as the needle drops through the needle plate. However, the thread has resistance on it as it moves. The thread tightens as it moves down, and then looses as it moves back up. The sewing machine take up lever lists the thread to maintain drag even as the needle rises.
The thread from the bobbin is also under resistance. It is draw up by a overlapping loop with the upper thread. As the needle rises, the bobbin thread rises. However, the bobbin tension also pull back creating drag on the thread.
As we saw in our two illustrations, there is a tendancy for upper and lower threads to pull against the other. If the upper thread pulls harder than the lower thread, you will see puckers of excess thread collect across the top of the seam. If the lower thread pulls harder, you will see a nice looking top seam. But when you look under the fabric, you will see gobs of excess theads collected.
Perfect sewing machine tensions are achieved when the upper and lower thread drag is equalized. The thread knot forms in the center of the fabric. You see no excess on top of the seam or under the fabric.
In our next post, we will explore how to insure perfect tensions every time. If you would like a free sewing machine repair course, check out our 7 Steps To Peak Performance For Your Sewing Machine at http://www.fixsewingmachines.com.
If extreme cases, you may need to see your professional sewing machine repair technician. You may even want to take a sewing machine repair course or a series of sewing machine repair courses. The more you understand sewing machine tensions, the easier sewing will be.
Like two teams playing tug of war, rope is stretched across a stream (or line). Each team pulls on their end of the rope. One team pulls harder than the other. Them the other team pulls harder. Back and forth the teams pull against each other. Eventually, the reach a stalemate. The pull of each team is offset by the pull of the other team.
Like a playground teetertaughter, one person straddles the board on each end. First one pushes off and up they go. The other comes down, and pushes off. Up they go. Up and down. Down and up. Then the two kids work to position them self just right. They push off so gently and easily that the board comes to balance with the two kids both half way up.
Sewing machine tensions are just like these two examples. Tension is by definition the amount of pull, drag, or resistance the thread has as it flows through the sewing motion.
Along the top of the sewing machine, is the upper thread that passes through the tension discs, the tension spring, the take up lever, and eventually the eye of the needle.
On the bottom is the bobbin. It rides secluded inside its bobbin carrier, with its thread neatly flowing under the bobbin tension spring.
The top thread is drawn down into the sewing machine as the needle drops through the needle plate. However, the thread has resistance on it as it moves. The thread tightens as it moves down, and then looses as it moves back up. The sewing machine take up lever lists the thread to maintain drag even as the needle rises.
The thread from the bobbin is also under resistance. It is draw up by a overlapping loop with the upper thread. As the needle rises, the bobbin thread rises. However, the bobbin tension also pull back creating drag on the thread.
As we saw in our two illustrations, there is a tendancy for upper and lower threads to pull against the other. If the upper thread pulls harder than the lower thread, you will see puckers of excess thread collect across the top of the seam. If the lower thread pulls harder, you will see a nice looking top seam. But when you look under the fabric, you will see gobs of excess theads collected.
Perfect sewing machine tensions are achieved when the upper and lower thread drag is equalized. The thread knot forms in the center of the fabric. You see no excess on top of the seam or under the fabric.
In our next post, we will explore how to insure perfect tensions every time. If you would like a free sewing machine repair course, check out our 7 Steps To Peak Performance For Your Sewing Machine at http://www.fixsewingmachines.com.
Wednesday, October 29, 2008
Adjusting Tensions Part 2
A free sewing machine repair course is available at my sewing machine repair website. The course is entitled "7 Steps To Peak Performance For Your Sewing Machine". This sewing machine repair course is actually designed for the sewing machine user. It reveals essential step by step proceedures for adjusting and maintaining good tensions. Go there now to download your free sewing machine repair course.
In my last post, I introduced tensions. I discussed the frustrations and problems that many sewing machine users endure over tensions. The basic technique for adjusting tensions on the bobbin and upper tensions were explored.
Education is the solution to tension problems. Understanding how tensions work, why they work, and how to manage them is vital.
First let us define sewing machine tension. It has nothing to do with headaches, neckaches, or backaches, although faulty sewing machine tension may well cause all three. Tension simply means resistance, drag, or pull.
On a sewing machine there is thread drawn from a thread spool on top of the machine. It flows through thread guides, over and around tension discs, through a tension spring and a take up lever. It finally flows through the eye of the needle. At each point where the thread touches a guide, disc, spring, lever, or even the needle, the thread rubs against the surface creating drag or resistance. This drag is tension.
When most users think of sewing machine tensions, however, they think only of a dial they may turn to adjust tensions. The dial or knob turns a shaft increasing or decreasing the pressure on the thread as it passes through the tension discs.
The same is true with the bobbin tension. The thread from the bobbin draws under a tension spring that may be adjusted by slightly turning its tension screw. The only time this is usually needed, however, is when the user changes the size of thread being used. The tension may be increased of decreased as needed.
In our next post on tensions, we will discuss how to identify and solve problems with sewing machine tensions.
When you fully understand sewing machine tensions, you will save much frustration, professional sewing machine repair, money, and time.
In my last post, I introduced tensions. I discussed the frustrations and problems that many sewing machine users endure over tensions. The basic technique for adjusting tensions on the bobbin and upper tensions were explored.
Education is the solution to tension problems. Understanding how tensions work, why they work, and how to manage them is vital.
First let us define sewing machine tension. It has nothing to do with headaches, neckaches, or backaches, although faulty sewing machine tension may well cause all three. Tension simply means resistance, drag, or pull.
On a sewing machine there is thread drawn from a thread spool on top of the machine. It flows through thread guides, over and around tension discs, through a tension spring and a take up lever. It finally flows through the eye of the needle. At each point where the thread touches a guide, disc, spring, lever, or even the needle, the thread rubs against the surface creating drag or resistance. This drag is tension.
When most users think of sewing machine tensions, however, they think only of a dial they may turn to adjust tensions. The dial or knob turns a shaft increasing or decreasing the pressure on the thread as it passes through the tension discs.
The same is true with the bobbin tension. The thread from the bobbin draws under a tension spring that may be adjusted by slightly turning its tension screw. The only time this is usually needed, however, is when the user changes the size of thread being used. The tension may be increased of decreased as needed.
In our next post on tensions, we will discuss how to identify and solve problems with sewing machine tensions.
When you fully understand sewing machine tensions, you will save much frustration, professional sewing machine repair, money, and time.
Tuesday, October 28, 2008
How To Adjust Tensions Part 1
Tensions are a common source of frustrations for sewing machine users. To hear some talk about this issue, you might get the idea that you need a complete sewing machine repair course just properly adjust sewing machine tensions.
This may be why years ago, users were instructed never to touch their tension adjustments. Just let the professional sewing machine repair technician set the tensions, and leave them alone. If they get out of skew, take the machine back to the sewing machine repair guy.
You might be surprised how many thousands of new sewing machine owners were told precisely the above sentiments.
Personally, I believe the sewing machine user needs to understand tensions and tension adjustments on their sewing machine. If you change the size of thread, your tensions will change too. Unfortunately, the tensions on most sewing machines are not automatically going to measure the size of your thread and loosed or tighted for perfect tension.
Instead, it is up to the user to adjust the tensions. This should not require dozens of sewing machine repair courses, although there is a great deal to learn about your sewing machine.
What you need to understand, is that your sewing machine tensions are designed for you to easily adjust them.
There is a small screw on you bobbin carrier that adjusts the bobbin tension spring. A slight turn to the right will tighten or increase tension. A slight turn to the left will loosen or decrease tension. In the next post, I will explain the basics of bobbin tension.
The upper tension is also easily adjusted and even more convenient. On the front or top of your machine close to the needle take up lever, is a dial. It usually has numbers on it. Increase the number to increase tensions. Decrease the number to decrease the tension.
Faulty tension adjustment makes a great excuse for professional sewing machine repair, but it can also be expensive to get a tune up everytime your tensions mess up.
This may be why years ago, users were instructed never to touch their tension adjustments. Just let the professional sewing machine repair technician set the tensions, and leave them alone. If they get out of skew, take the machine back to the sewing machine repair guy.
You might be surprised how many thousands of new sewing machine owners were told precisely the above sentiments.
Personally, I believe the sewing machine user needs to understand tensions and tension adjustments on their sewing machine. If you change the size of thread, your tensions will change too. Unfortunately, the tensions on most sewing machines are not automatically going to measure the size of your thread and loosed or tighted for perfect tension.
Instead, it is up to the user to adjust the tensions. This should not require dozens of sewing machine repair courses, although there is a great deal to learn about your sewing machine.
What you need to understand, is that your sewing machine tensions are designed for you to easily adjust them.
There is a small screw on you bobbin carrier that adjusts the bobbin tension spring. A slight turn to the right will tighten or increase tension. A slight turn to the left will loosen or decrease tension. In the next post, I will explain the basics of bobbin tension.
The upper tension is also easily adjusted and even more convenient. On the front or top of your machine close to the needle take up lever, is a dial. It usually has numbers on it. Increase the number to increase tensions. Decrease the number to decrease the tension.
Faulty tension adjustment makes a great excuse for professional sewing machine repair, but it can also be expensive to get a tune up everytime your tensions mess up.
Friday, October 24, 2008
Try To Use The Right Needle
Today there are many different kinds of needles. New techniques demand new tools. New applications create demand for specialty items.
Sewing today is far different from the textile production of the 1930's and 40's. The introduction of the home zig zag sewing machine in the 1950's and the home serger in the 1960's caused a revolution in how sewing was done. The results are spectacular. The introduction of computerized sewing machines in the late 1980's and 90's expanded the possibilities even further. Sewing machine repair has also changed.
The variety and potential of sewing machines has been expanded a thousand fold. Consider that during the 1940's the top of the line sewing machine boasted a straight stitch with a few gadgets. Today a top of the line sewing machine will have literally thousands of stitch combinations. The sewing machine repair technician needs to learn all the ins and outs of the new mechanical and computerized parts in the sewing machine.
Along with the revolution in sewing machines, has come a huge expansion in the variety of specialty needles available. There are many sizes of home sewing needles 8, 10, 11, 12, 14, 16, 18... There are sharp point needles, ball point needles, universal point needles, winged needles, twin needles, triple needles, quilting needles, embroidery needles, leather needles, denim needles, big eye needles, long scarf needles, stainless steel needle, titanium needles, and more.
Singer sewing machines use to use a color banded system. Today needle packages are usually marked simply based on their size and specialty application.
Using the right needle will make your project go smoother and easier. Matching the fabric, thread, and needle is almost an art in itself. However, when you use the wrong needle, expect problems.
As I indicated in my last blog, it is important to differentiate between the user error and true mechanical problems. Education is often the solution to the first. Sewing machine repair is the solution to the second.
Sewing today is far different from the textile production of the 1930's and 40's. The introduction of the home zig zag sewing machine in the 1950's and the home serger in the 1960's caused a revolution in how sewing was done. The results are spectacular. The introduction of computerized sewing machines in the late 1980's and 90's expanded the possibilities even further. Sewing machine repair has also changed.
The variety and potential of sewing machines has been expanded a thousand fold. Consider that during the 1940's the top of the line sewing machine boasted a straight stitch with a few gadgets. Today a top of the line sewing machine will have literally thousands of stitch combinations. The sewing machine repair technician needs to learn all the ins and outs of the new mechanical and computerized parts in the sewing machine.
Along with the revolution in sewing machines, has come a huge expansion in the variety of specialty needles available. There are many sizes of home sewing needles 8, 10, 11, 12, 14, 16, 18... There are sharp point needles, ball point needles, universal point needles, winged needles, twin needles, triple needles, quilting needles, embroidery needles, leather needles, denim needles, big eye needles, long scarf needles, stainless steel needle, titanium needles, and more.
Singer sewing machines use to use a color banded system. Today needle packages are usually marked simply based on their size and specialty application.
Using the right needle will make your project go smoother and easier. Matching the fabric, thread, and needle is almost an art in itself. However, when you use the wrong needle, expect problems.
As I indicated in my last blog, it is important to differentiate between the user error and true mechanical problems. Education is often the solution to the first. Sewing machine repair is the solution to the second.
Wednesday, October 22, 2008
Needles Are Not All The Same
As a sewing machine repair technician, it is essential to be able to tell the difference between real sewing machine or mechanical problems, and user error.
While it is probably not a good idea to tell a sewer they made a mistake, often what they see as a mechanical problem is simply a case of user error.
This is especially true when a customer attempts to use knit or stretchy fabrics without changing their needle. Even the best sewing machine will produce skipped stitches and poor quality stitching when the user fails to use the proper thread, needle, and fabric combination.
Needles today are made with very specific applications in mind. Some have very sharp points to penetrate tightly woven fabrics. Some needles have rounded or ball point tips to slide through knit fabrics without pricking or catching the knit fibers. It is essential that you use the right needle for the application at hand.
Recently, I had a customer bring her sewing machine in for sewing machine tune up. She complained that all of sudden it just started skipping stitches. I asked her about her project. While she had sewn for many years, she did not realize that a special needle was needed for knit fabrics. Most of her sewing had been on woven cottons, but she just wanted to do this one project using a very stretchy fabric. The result was frustration.
As a sewing machine repair technician, I believe it is our duty to explain to our customers the simple solutions to their frustrations. Simply stated, if you sew woven fabrics use a sharp or universal needle. If you sew on stretchy fabric, use a ball point of stretch needle. It saves loads of frustration and possibly even a sewing machine repair bill.
While it is probably not a good idea to tell a sewer they made a mistake, often what they see as a mechanical problem is simply a case of user error.
This is especially true when a customer attempts to use knit or stretchy fabrics without changing their needle. Even the best sewing machine will produce skipped stitches and poor quality stitching when the user fails to use the proper thread, needle, and fabric combination.
Needles today are made with very specific applications in mind. Some have very sharp points to penetrate tightly woven fabrics. Some needles have rounded or ball point tips to slide through knit fabrics without pricking or catching the knit fibers. It is essential that you use the right needle for the application at hand.
Recently, I had a customer bring her sewing machine in for sewing machine tune up. She complained that all of sudden it just started skipping stitches. I asked her about her project. While she had sewn for many years, she did not realize that a special needle was needed for knit fabrics. Most of her sewing had been on woven cottons, but she just wanted to do this one project using a very stretchy fabric. The result was frustration.
As a sewing machine repair technician, I believe it is our duty to explain to our customers the simple solutions to their frustrations. Simply stated, if you sew woven fabrics use a sharp or universal needle. If you sew on stretchy fabric, use a ball point of stretch needle. It saves loads of frustration and possibly even a sewing machine repair bill.
Friday, October 17, 2008
The Most Important Part
The most important part on your sewing machine is the needle.
The needle is often overlooked, forgotten, abused, and troublesome.
I remember this old black cast iron Singer a customer brought in. She was bragging about how much sewing she had done on the sewing machine. She listed at least a dozen projects she had completed over the years. She said the machine just stopped making a good stitch. The tensions seemed all messed up. The fabric kept getting stuck. The threads would break. It just was a mess.
I set the machine up on the sewing machine repair bench. As usual, I reached over and took hold of the hand wheel. It seemed to turn freely.
Then I glanced down at the needle. "Oh, my gosh!" The needle was covered with red flakes of powdery dust.
I asked the customer, "How often do you change the needle?"
The customer proudly reponded, "I have never changed the needle. That is the original needle. It was there when I bought this machine forty years ago."
I did not say anything, but I was thinking pretty loudly.
The needle is the one part on a sewing machine that costs only a few pennies, but is worth big dollars in terms of quality stitching and satisfying sewing experiences.
Needles are the most common cause of sewing machine repair problems after faulty threading. Needle often get dull. They develop burrs. They bend and wear. They can even rust.
Solution: Change the needle every three to four hours of sewing. Change the needle after every second project. Change the needle when you change types of fabric. Change the needle whenever you are dissatisfied with the quality of your stitch. Change the needle before you begin sewing machine repair.
The needle is often overlooked, forgotten, abused, and troublesome.
I remember this old black cast iron Singer a customer brought in. She was bragging about how much sewing she had done on the sewing machine. She listed at least a dozen projects she had completed over the years. She said the machine just stopped making a good stitch. The tensions seemed all messed up. The fabric kept getting stuck. The threads would break. It just was a mess.
I set the machine up on the sewing machine repair bench. As usual, I reached over and took hold of the hand wheel. It seemed to turn freely.
Then I glanced down at the needle. "Oh, my gosh!" The needle was covered with red flakes of powdery dust.
I asked the customer, "How often do you change the needle?"
The customer proudly reponded, "I have never changed the needle. That is the original needle. It was there when I bought this machine forty years ago."
I did not say anything, but I was thinking pretty loudly.
The needle is the one part on a sewing machine that costs only a few pennies, but is worth big dollars in terms of quality stitching and satisfying sewing experiences.
Needles are the most common cause of sewing machine repair problems after faulty threading. Needle often get dull. They develop burrs. They bend and wear. They can even rust.
Solution: Change the needle every three to four hours of sewing. Change the needle after every second project. Change the needle when you change types of fabric. Change the needle whenever you are dissatisfied with the quality of your stitch. Change the needle before you begin sewing machine repair.
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