Adjusting Tensions Part 2

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In my last post, I introduced tensions. I discussed the frustrations and problems that many sewing machine users endure over tensions. The basic technique for adjusting tensions on the bobbin and upper tensions were explored.

Education is the solution to tension problems. Understanding how tensions work, why they work, and how to manage them is vital.

First let us define sewing machine tension. It has nothing to do with headaches, neckaches, or backaches, although faulty sewing machine tension may well cause all three. Tension simply means resistance, drag, or pull.

On a sewing machine there is thread drawn from a thread spool on top of the machine. It flows through thread guides, over and around tension discs, through a tension spring and a take up lever. It finally flows through the eye of the needle. At each point where the thread touches a guide, disc, spring, lever, or even the needle, the thread rubs against the surface creating drag or resistance. This drag is tension.

When most users think of sewing machine tensions, however, they think only of a dial they may turn to adjust tensions. The dial or knob turns a shaft increasing or decreasing the pressure on the thread as it passes through the tension discs.

The same is true with the bobbin tension. The thread from the bobbin draws under a tension spring that may be adjusted by slightly turning its tension screw. The only time this is usually needed, however, is when the user changes the size of thread being used. The tension may be increased of decreased as needed.

In our next post on tensions, we will discuss how to identify and solve problems with sewing machine tensions.

When you fully understand sewing machine tensions, you will save much frustration, professional sewing machine repair, money, and time.

How To Adjust Tensions Part 1

Tensions are a common source of frustrations for sewing machine users. To hear some talk about this issue, you might get the idea that you need a complete sewing machine repair course just properly adjust sewing machine tensions.

This may be why years ago, users were instructed never to touch their tension adjustments. Just let the professional sewing machine repair technician set the tensions, and leave them alone. If they get out of skew, take the machine back to the sewing machine repair guy.

You might be surprised how many thousands of new sewing machine owners were told precisely the above sentiments.

Personally, I believe the sewing machine user needs to understand tensions and tension adjustments on their sewing machine. If you change the size of thread, your tensions will change too. Unfortunately, the tensions on most sewing machines are not automatically going to measure the size of your thread and loosed or tighted for perfect tension.

Instead, it is up to the user to adjust the tensions. This should not require dozens of sewing machine repair courses, although there is a great deal to learn about your sewing machine.

What you need to understand, is that your sewing machine tensions are designed for you to easily adjust them.

There is a small screw on you bobbin carrier that adjusts the bobbin tension spring. A slight turn to the right will tighten or increase tension. A slight turn to the left will loosen or decrease tension. In the next post, I will explain the basics of bobbin tension.

The upper tension is also easily adjusted and even more convenient. On the front or top of your machine close to the needle take up lever, is a dial. It usually has numbers on it. Increase the number to increase tensions. Decrease the number to decrease the tension.

Faulty tension adjustment makes a great excuse for professional sewing machine repair, but it can also be expensive to get a tune up everytime your tensions mess up.

Try To Use The Right Needle

Today there are many different kinds of needles. New techniques demand new tools. New applications create demand for specialty items.

Sewing today is far different from the textile production of the 1930's and 40's. The introduction of the home zig zag sewing machine in the 1950's and the home serger in the 1960's caused a revolution in how sewing was done. The results are spectacular. The introduction of computerized sewing machines in the late 1980's and 90's expanded the possibilities even further. Sewing machine repair has also changed.

The variety and potential of sewing machines has been expanded a thousand fold. Consider that during the 1940's the top of the line sewing machine boasted a straight stitch with a few gadgets. Today a top of the line sewing machine will have literally thousands of stitch combinations. The sewing machine repair technician needs to learn all the ins and outs of the new mechanical and computerized parts in the sewing machine.

Along with the revolution in sewing machines, has come a huge expansion in the variety of specialty needles available. There are many sizes of home sewing needles 8, 10, 11, 12, 14, 16, 18... There are sharp point needles, ball point needles, universal point needles, winged needles, twin needles, triple needles, quilting needles, embroidery needles, leather needles, denim needles, big eye needles, long scarf needles, stainless steel needle, titanium needles, and more.
Singer sewing machines use to use a color banded system. Today needle packages are usually marked simply based on their size and specialty application.

Using the right needle will make your project go smoother and easier. Matching the fabric, thread, and needle is almost an art in itself. However, when you use the wrong needle, expect problems.

As I indicated in my last blog, it is important to differentiate between the user error and true mechanical problems. Education is often the solution to the first. Sewing machine repair is the solution to the second.

Needles Are Not All The Same

As a sewing machine repair technician, it is essential to be able to tell the difference between real sewing machine or mechanical problems, and user error.

While it is probably not a good idea to tell a sewer they made a mistake, often what they see as a mechanical problem is simply a case of user error.

This is especially true when a customer attempts to use knit or stretchy fabrics without changing their needle. Even the best sewing machine will produce skipped stitches and poor quality stitching when the user fails to use the proper thread, needle, and fabric combination.

Needles today are made with very specific applications in mind. Some have very sharp points to penetrate tightly woven fabrics. Some needles have rounded or ball point tips to slide through knit fabrics without pricking or catching the knit fibers. It is essential that you use the right needle for the application at hand.

Recently, I had a customer bring her sewing machine in for sewing machine tune up. She complained that all of sudden it just started skipping stitches. I asked her about her project. While she had sewn for many years, she did not realize that a special needle was needed for knit fabrics. Most of her sewing had been on woven cottons, but she just wanted to do this one project using a very stretchy fabric. The result was frustration.

As a sewing machine repair technician, I believe it is our duty to explain to our customers the simple solutions to their frustrations. Simply stated, if you sew woven fabrics use a sharp or universal needle. If you sew on stretchy fabric, use a ball point of stretch needle. It saves loads of frustration and possibly even a sewing machine repair bill.

The Most Important Part

The most important part on your sewing machine is the needle.

The needle is often overlooked, forgotten, abused, and troublesome.

I remember this old black cast iron Singer a customer brought in. She was bragging about how much sewing she had done on the sewing machine. She listed at least a dozen projects she had completed over the years. She said the machine just stopped making a good stitch. The tensions seemed all messed up. The fabric kept getting stuck. The threads would break. It just was a mess.

I set the machine up on the sewing machine repair bench. As usual, I reached over and took hold of the hand wheel. It seemed to turn freely.

Then I glanced down at the needle. "Oh, my gosh!" The needle was covered with red flakes of powdery dust.

I asked the customer, "How often do you change the needle?"

The customer proudly reponded, "I have never changed the needle. That is the original needle. It was there when I bought this machine forty years ago."

I did not say anything, but I was thinking pretty loudly.

The needle is the one part on a sewing machine that costs only a few pennies, but is worth big dollars in terms of quality stitching and satisfying sewing experiences.

Needles are the most common cause of sewing machine repair problems after faulty threading. Needle often get dull. They develop burrs. They bend and wear. They can even rust.

Solution: Change the needle every three to four hours of sewing. Change the needle after every second project. Change the needle when you change types of fabric. Change the needle whenever you are dissatisfied with the quality of your stitch. Change the needle before you begin sewing machine repair.

The First Step of Sewing Machine Servicing

When you receive a sewing machine for service, the very first thing you must do is get the low down.

Not only do you need all the contact information. Yes, you need name, address, phone, and email address. But you need something more.

You need to find out what the sewing machine user thinks, feels, and observes about their sewing machine. Sewing Machine Repair begins with addressing the concerns and needs of the customer.

You may hear things like, "It just won't sew."

You might hear, "The threads just bunch up under the fabric."

You might hear, "I just can not wind a bobbin."

You might hear, "When I press down on my foot pedal, nothing happens."

You might hear, "It just doen't make a descent stitch anymore."

Satisfying the customer means, listening and hearing their frustrations. Understanding the customer's problems, means you can go directly to the solutions.

In most cases, the diagnosis is fairly quick and easy once you understand how the sewing machine works. Sewing Machine Repair begins with this diagnosis. Let your customer help you.

If you complete a sewing machine repair, and fail to resolve the original complaint; you have failed. It is essential to fix the sewing machine problems experienced by the user.

What is Good Thread?

Good thread is thread that compliments the project you are sewing.

If you are doing a quick craft project that you do not care about, then the thread you use probably does not matter too much. If, however, you are working on a special project that you want to looks just right, the thread does matter.

This morning, I was explaining to one of my sewing machine repair customers, that her forty year old five for a dollar thread was not going to sew they way she wanted.

She responded, "I know I have sewing around the world with that thread on this machine."

Sometimes, a new spool of thread is needed. Sometimes, a quality thread is needed. Sometimes, the old, deteriorated, rotten, cheap thread should be thrown out.

So how to you choose a good thread?

First, look for quality. Look for long fiber threads. If you are using natural fiber fabrics, you may want to use natural fiber threads like cotton or silk. If you need strength, you may want polyester. If you are quilting, use machine quilting threads.

Never use hand sewing or hand quilting threads on your sewing machine. Avoid fuzzy threads like cotton covered polyester threads.

Match your threads to your project.

Finally, consider that if you use quality threads they will cause your sewing machine much less trouble. Junk threads can mess up any sewing machine.

When an average sewing machine repair today costs around one hundred dollars, an ounce of prevention can be a big investment.

The Problem With Thread

The problem with thread is that many sewers do not understand it.

There are many kinds of thread. Some threads are made of natural fibers like cotton. Some threads are made of synthetic fibers like polyester. As long as you use high quality long fiber threads, you will get a good result. It is best to match the fiber to the fabric. It is also good to consider the special characteristics of the threads.

Unfortunately, many sewers buy the cheapest threads they can find. They are all excited to find special deals like 4 spools for a dollar. The quality is expressed in the price. If it has a cheap price, expect it to be a lousy thread.

Thread and especially natural fiber threads deteriorate over time. They lose their strength, color, and stability.

Recently, a customer brought a Singer 403A for sewing machine repair. She said the threads kept breaking. There was nothing wrong with the machine. It was her thread. She was trying to use twenty year old super cheap thread. It broke without any significant tension.

Using bad threads will often lead to unnecessary sewing machine repairs.

Suggestion: Always use good quality threads that are fresh and not old. Avoid old threads. Avoid cheap threads.

How to thread a sewing machine?

How to thread a sewing machine?

Without thread there is no sewing. Thread is an essential.

The sewing machine uses thread to join fabrics together. One thread fills a bobbin and is inserted under the fabric flow. One thread is drawn through the eye of the needle from above. The sewing machine moves the needle down through the fabric and beyond. The thread from above is caught by the sewing machine hook and pulled around the bobbin thread. As the needle withdraws and moves up, it tightens the threads into a locked stitch inside the fabric.

Unfortunately, when a sewing machine is not properly threaded, the stitching is distorted or possibly ruined completely.

When threading is faulty, sewers often resort to seeking professional sewing machine repair. While this is an easy fix for those experienced and skilled in sewing machine repair, it is also a frustrating problem for the user.

There are many ways to improperly thread a sewing machine, but only one right way to thread a sewing machine.

How Do You Thread the Elna Sewing Machine?

How do you thread a Singer sewing machine?

How do you thread a Bernina, Brother, Juki, Janome, or any other sewing machine?

While there are thousands of different models of sewing machines, and each one has its own unique way to accommodate the threading process; they are all essentially the same.

The upper thread comes wound on a spool. The spools come in a variety of different shapes and designs, but they all work the same. The spool of thread is placed over a spool pin which may be horizontally or vertically mounted to the sewing machine.

A simple and easy way to thread a sewing machine is to draw the thread through, around, and over the various thread guides to the needle. Sound easy? It is.

Then, why are there so many mistakes made threading a sewing machine?

It must be done perfectly every time. No mistakes.

Here are the key instructions, threading a sewing machine begin at the thread spool. It must be properly placed on the spool. Draw the thread from right to left. Draw the thread from the spool pin to the first guide.

Caution: threads often snag on rough spots on the spool, therefore, double check that the thread flows freely off the spool. If the spool pin is horizon, a spool cap just slightly larger than the end of the thread spool is required to lift the thread off the edge of the spool where it might snag. On some rear mounted vertical spool pins, a spool net ( a net material used to guide the thread) may be needed to keep the thread from getting snarled as it flows off the spool pin.

Draw the thread through the first thread guide. Look to the left for another thread guide. Depending on the machine there may be up to four thread guides from across the top, back, and toward the front of the sewing machine.

Many newer machines make this easier by numbering the threading steps so you can just follow the numbers. From the thread guides, the thread must be drawn through the tension discs. Older machines have front mounted tension assemblies that are obvious, but often the tension assemblies are hidden under the covers.

Threading through the tensions is a common source of problems. If the presser foot is down, the thread will ride along the ridge of the tension discs instead of flowing through them properly.

The solution is: raise the presser foot lever when you begin threading and keep it up until you reach the needle.The thread must follow through the upper thread guides and through the tension discs. These discs consist of two or more flat round discs that press against the thread during sewing to provide “tension”. After flowing through the tension discs, the thread must flow through the tension spring which helps keep the tension on the thread stable during sewing. Next the thread must flow through the sewing machine take up lever, and back down through any remaining tension guides to the eye of the needle.

Finally, the thread must flow through the eye of the needle, however, before finally threading the needle. Test the tension by slightly tugging on the end of the thread. You should feel very little resistance. Now drop the presser foot and test again. (Remember it has been up until now.) You should feel resistance now.

Finish the threading by threading the needle.

Avoid costly sewing machine repairs by making sure the sewing machine is properly threaded. If you are having problems with stitching, rethread. This is often the sewing machine repair solution.

Learn To Do Sewing Machine Repair

This blog will share current articles about sewing machine repair.
These posts aim to provide practical information for sewers who want to maintain their own sewing machines.
They also aim to provide support for professional sewing machine repair technicians.
From these posts, tips and tricks for sewing machine repair and sewing machine repair business will be promoted.